Mapo Tofu: Silken Tofu in Spicy Sichuan Sauce

Ingredients and substitutions

Choosing your ingredients

Soft or silken tofu gives the classic quivering texture, and it is also the most fragile. Cut it gently and slide the cubes into the water. Medium-soft tofu is sturdier and a good choice for a first try. Extra-firm tofu holds together easily but eats like a different dish. Use a wok or a 12-inch (30 cm) skillet so you can push the cubes with the back of a spatula.

Doubanjiang is a salty paste made from fermented broad beans, chili peppers, soybeans, salt and flour. Wikipedia calls it "the soul of Sichuan cuisine". The best-known type comes from Pixian, near Chengdu, and is aged in the sun, often for more than three years. Look for a jar labeled "broad bean chili paste" or "Pixian doubanjiang" at Asian grocery stores. It is not chile-garlic sauce, sambal or sriracha, which are fresh chili sauces without fermented beans. The Chinese standard for Pixian paste allows 15 to 22 grams of salt per 100 grams, so taste before adding any salt.

Fermented black beans (douchi) are salted, aged soybeans. Rinse them briefly, then chop. Sichuan peppercorns are not related to black pepper or chili. They are the dried husks of a Zanthoxylum plant, with a citrus-like scent and a tingling, buzzing effect. Toast and grind them just before serving, since ground spice fades fast. Discard any hard black seeds, which taste gritty.

Possible substitutions

• Doubanjiang: No exact match. Korean gochujang is the closest easy swap, but it is sweeter, so leave out the sugar and add more red pepper flakes.
• Fermented black beans: Omit them and add 1 extra teaspoon of soy sauce. The sauce will be less deep.
• Sichuan peppercorns: Nothing else numbs the mouth the same way. Leave them out rather than use black pepper, and expect a spicy dish without the málà.
• Ground pork: Ground beef, which Wikipedia lists as the traditional meat, cooked to 160°F (71°C). For a meatless version, use 8 ounces (225 g) of finely chopped shiitake mushrooms.

Step-by-step method

1. Toast and grind the peppercorns. Put the Sichuan peppercorns in a dry skillet over medium-low heat. Shake the pan for 2 to 3 minutes, until they smell citrusy and turn a shade darker. Do not let them smoke. Cool them on a plate, then grind fine. Set the powder aside; it goes on at the end, not into the pan.
2. Blanch the tofu. Bring the water and salt to a bare simmer, with only small bubbles. Slide in the tofu cubes and leave them for 2 to 3 minutes, until they look slightly firmer. Turn off the heat and leave the tofu in the hot water. The salted water seasons the cubes and helps them hold together later.
3. Brown the pork. Heat the oil in a wok or skillet over medium-high heat until it shimmers. Add the pork and break it up. Cook for 3 to 5 minutes, until it is browned with crisp edges and no pink remains. Ground pork must reach 160°F (71°C). Lower the heat to medium.
4. Fry the paste and aromatics. Add the doubanjiang, black beans and pepper flakes. Stir for 1 to 2 minutes, until the oil turns deep red and smells rich and savory. Add the garlic and ginger and stir for 30 seconds more. Frying the paste in oil first gives the sauce its color. Lower the heat if anything sticks.
5. Add the liquids. Pour in the stock, soy sauce and wine, then add the sugar. Scrape up any browned bits and simmer for about 2 minutes, until the sauce tastes savory and rounded. Taste it now. Add salt only if needed, since the paste is already salty.
6. Simmer the tofu in the sauce. Lift the tofu out with a slotted spoon, let the water drain, and slide it into the sauce. Do not stir with a spatula. Push the cubes gently with the back of it and tilt the pan. Simmer over medium-low heat for 4 to 5 minutes, until the tofu is steaming hot and red at the edges.
7. Thicken the sauce. Stir the cornstarch into the cold water until smooth. Pour in about half and nudge the tofu so it spreads. Wait 30 seconds. If the sauce still looks thin, add more slurry. Simmer 1 minute more, until it turns glossy and coats the back of a spoon.
8. Finish and serve. Turn off the heat. Dust the top with the ground Sichuan pepper, scatter on the scallions and drizzle with the chili oil, if using. Spoon over hot rice and serve right away, while the sauce is bubbling. The first bite will tingle, and the heat builds on the second.

Storage and reheating

Mapo tofu is best fresh, because the tofu releases water as it sits and the sauce thins. Refrigerate leftovers within two hours of cooking, or within one hour if the room is hotter than 90°F (32°C). Store in an airtight container for 3 to 4 days.

Reheat gently in a saucepan over medium-low heat with a splash of water, stirring as little as possible, until steaming hot and 165°F (74°C) all the way through. Freezing is not recommended, since thawed tofu turns spongy. Add fresh ground peppercorns and scallions after reheating.

Common mistakes

• Stirring the tofu hard. Soft tofu breaks into crumbs under a spatula. Push the cubes with the back of it and tilt the pan.
• Skipping the blanch. Tofu added straight to the sauce is more likely to break and taste bland. A few minutes in hot salted water seasons and firms it.
• Adding salt too early. Doubanjiang and black beans are both salty. Taste the sauce before the tofu goes in.
• Burning the paste. Doubanjiang scorches fast and turns bitter. Fry it over medium heat and add a splash of stock if the pan looks dry.